The relationship between fashion and dance has long served as a wellspring of creative inspiration for designers. Since the 1830s, the artistry of ballet has influenced the aesthetics of the fashion world. From flowing silhouettes to delicate fabrics and disciplined poise, the influence of ballet has quietly shaped generations of couture. Recently, this interplay has re-emerged in full force through the rise of “Balletcore” — a soft, ethereal trend that blends the elegance of ballet with everyday wear.
This revival has graced the wardrobes of celebrities and dominated runway presentations. Ferragamo showcased models in airy ballet skirts, figure-hugging leotards, and stiletto-heeled ballet shoes complete with ankle-wrapping ribbons. JW Anderson offered structured gowns that nodded to the precision of ballet choreography, while Simone Rocha remained loyal to her poetic signature with romantic tulle and dreamy silhouettes that evoke prima ballerinas.
Balletcore’s influence has extended to footwear as well. Beyond the previously spotlighted “sneakerina” hybrids, 2025 has introduced a fresh twist: the ballerina-meets-derby shoe. The traditional derby shoe — characterized by its open lacing and layered leather construction — is now being reimagined with ballet-like delicacy and thinner soles, replacing its once-heavy, thick-soled presence.
Major brands have embraced this evolution. Jacquemus led the way with its 2024 Spring/Summer collaboration with iconic ballet brand Repetto, unveiling the Zizi derby shoe — a refined, flat lace-up inspired by both dance and streetwear. Celine, under new creative director Michael Rider, brought the slim-soled derby to the spotlight during his debut Spring/Summer 2026 show. Meanwhile, Berluti unveiled its own version of the “ballet sneaker,” seamlessly blending formal tradition with athletic ease.
This resurgence of the flat derby also has a stylish precedent: the 1970s French icon Serge Gainsbourg. Known for his bohemian charisma and intellectual flair, Gainsbourg famously wore Repetto’s Zizi shoe — designed for dancer Zizi Jeanmaire — almost exclusively. The shoe, an elegant hybrid of ballet slipper and derby, became a personal trademark and a quiet rebellion against conventional menswear.
Fast forward to the 2010s, It-girls like Alexa Chung and Kate Moss reintroduced ballet shoes as a symbol of effortless chic. Now in 2025, the trend has evolved yet again, combining nostalgia with modern reinterpretation. As back-to-school and return-to-office seasons approach, the flat derby is poised to become a staple on everyone’s shopping list.
How to style it? You could take cues from Celine’s SS26 runway and pair yours with a wide-leg trouser for androgynous cool, or channel early 2010s energy with a white tank and skinny jeans. However you wear them, one thing is clear: the balletcore-derby hybrid is no longer just a niche aesthetic — it’s a movement rooted in elegance, comfort, and timeless rebellion.
